Building a timber partion wall (stud wall) These begin as a timber frame which is then covered with plasterboard. Building a stud wall can appear daunting at first, but basically it consists of a head and sole plate (piece of wood attached to the ceiling and floor) attached to these are further vertical pieces of wood and smaller horizontal pieces (noggins). Once the frame work is complete, the gypsum/plaster boards are fitted and finished.
1. Attaching the head and sole plates
Once you have your wood cut to size, start by locating the position of joists in the ceiling, where you want the partition to be. If the joists run in the opposite direction to the stud wall you will be able to attach the head plate to each individual joist at approximately 405mm centres using oval nails, or if the ceiling is likely to be damaged by hammering, screws can be used. If the joists run in the same direction the ideal would be for the new wall to run directly under a joist and the head plate can be easily fixed to it. If this is not possible, noggins (pieces of wood) will have to be fitted between the ceiling joists (in the loft) the head plate can then be attached to these. With the head plate fitted, drop a plumb line down to floor level from each side of the head plate and mark where the sole plate will be positioned. Nail the sole plate to a timber floor or drill, raw plug and screw into a concrete floor.
2. Mark stud positions
Assuming you are using 12.5mm gypsum/plasterboard, mark the positions of the vertical studs on the sole plate. The first will be at the end wall and screwed directly to the wall. The next stud must be positioned so that it’s centre is 600mm from the wall, and subsequent stud centres are a further 600mm from the wall thereafter (e.g. 600, 1200, 1800, 2400mm etc). If using 9.5mm plasterboard the stud centres should be every 400mm.
3. Fit studs
Measure and cut each stud, should your ceiling or floor be even slightly out, the distance between the head and sole plate will differ across the room. The studs should fit snugly between the plates. Secure the studs using 100mm oval nails driven in at an angle. Using a pencil, make small marks on the wall and floor at the centre of each stud so that locating them when attaching the gypsum/plasterboard will be easier.
4. Fit noggins
Cut noggins to fit between the studs attach them roughly halfway up the frame, nail them in place. Fit additional noggins where heavy items (shelves, pictures) will be hung,
5. Fitting gypsum/plasterboard
Fit the plasterboard, ensuring that each sheet is perfectly straight and that adjacent sheets meet at the centre of a stud. Using wedges, lift the sheets so that they touch any gap is at the floor and not the ceiling, skirting will be use to hide any gaps at floor level. Fix the boards with Drywall screws every 300mm around the perimeter and to the studs in between. Drive the screws in just below the surface of the plasterboard.
6. Finishing
Once all boards are fitted, you will need to make good all joins and infill screw heads.
Apply jointing compound down the joins before pressing in the jointing tape (make sure there are no air bubbles. Apply another thin coat over the top of the tape. You should be able to see the tape through the compound, if not, you have applied it too thickly. Allow to dry before applying a final layer, this can be sanded down to create a smooth finish.
Fill screw heads, when dry sand to a smooth finish.
Fill joins between the plasterboard and the wall and the job is complete.
Having smoothed the drywall compound, you can now decorate your new stud wall. Remember, when hanging pictures or shelves, fit them where you added the extra noggins.